CT34 Crumpet, cutter rigged sailboat built in 1977 by Ta Chiao, CT-34

Work Done

Installed 500 ft of 5/8" nylon rode - half serves 35 lb Danforth on 20 feet of stainless chain - half serves 35 lb CQR on 6 feet of galvanized chain

Installed RACOR 500 filter with shutoff valve to fuel tank

Replaced diesel fuel filling hose from deck to fuel tank

Relocated ignition switch to cockpit location by helmsman

Relocated instruments from starboard to port of companionway doors

Installed tachometer

Installed depthmeter - compatible with existing depth transducer

Obtained sunbrella covers (Cadet Gray) for forward hatch and pedestal wheel

Replaced 35 amp Alternator with 90 amp Motorola - self exciting

Removed solid teak bowsprit - epoxied bolt holes, refinished and reinstalled - rewired bow lights

Built teak wash boards for companionway with dadoed starboard slides

Rebuilt all hatches and removed teak decking. Forward hatch rebuilt with gray Lexan and stainless steel angle frame. Hatch teak frames were refinished - teak decking was removed and replaced with epoxied marine plywood - finished with Interlux (Brightside: Primer 4279 White, Polyurethane 4359 White, Thinner #216 for spraying). Pedestal steering base hatch was rebuilt with 3/4" marine plywood - heavy fiberglass mat with polyester resin and finished with Brightsides

Installed CPT Wheel Autopilot

Built pilot berth and had a berth cushion fabricated.

Recovered all cushions with sunbrella (Oyster white)

In engine and battery compartments - built new plywood shelfs and boards - refinished existing.

Cut large access panel from pilot berth into engine compartment - trimmed with teak edge

Installed Garhauer rigid vang

Installed Vetus cowl vents - rebuilt dorade boxes and replaced hardwood deck mounting plates (coated with epoxy)

Replaced overhead with removable panels (3mm Okume marine plywood, thin Wilsonart plastic laminate (Frosty White), coated exposed Okume with Helmsman urethane finish)

Rewired overhead with #10 wire for dome lights

Rebedded the coachroof handrails (used waterproof foam tape under teak and caulked the bolt holes

Removed diesel furnace and vent through roof - fiberglassed in the hole

Ground out perimeter of hatches where necessary, and glassed in teak edging around the cockpit well edge (after rubbing down teak contact surfaces with acetone)

Replace the two accessible screws of the forward padeye (that manages the staysail line) and installed bolts - to allow for harness attachment loading

Replaced steel diesel fuel tank with coal tar epoxy coated aluminum tank. Included a large access port with provision for two (or more) supply and two return connections built in. Included a Tempo fuel gauge sender and a 1 inch diameter fitting to serve as a dip stick port. The 1 inch diameter fitting also allows for pouring diesel fuel.

Diesel fuel tank - approximate dimensions.

Note limited clearance space above the tank. There is only 3/4" from top of tank to bottom of 2 1/2 inch high removable floor frames above the tank (leaving 3 inches from top of tank to bottom of the saloon plywood floor. Also, the tank was installed on (1/4) inch thick neoprene bearing pads. A 2 inch dia fuel fill hose and 3/4 inch vent hose feed into the side of the tank. Because of tight space, it is necessary to connect the fuel supply hose into the side of the tank. Tank top must be able to withstand someone stepping on it.

Material = 0.125" aluminum alloy 5052-H-32.

Baffles = one cross-sectional and one longitudinal with surge holes

One large (8 inch) access port (including a reinforcing ring on inside of tank and neoprene gasket)

coal tar epoxy coating on outside of tank

Tank size to match existing - except reduce vertical dimensions to allow for neoprene bearing pads (1/4" thick and 2" wide) between tank and hull

The neoprene pads were spaced 8 inches along the sloping/bearing sides as well as one along the longitudinal center. This provides for drainage and ventilation along the sides as well as at the bottom. The pads were bedded in 3M 5200 Fast and then a bead was applied along the perimeter. The pads are adhered and sealed to the tank but not the hull. Any abrasion from movement will occur between the pad and boat hull, and moisture is sealed out from between the tank and the pads.

The tank was fitted between the two fore and two aft fiberglass tabs that had constrained the original tank. Polyseamseal caulking/adhesive was applied between the tank and these tabs (about 1/16 to 1/8" clearance).

2" fiberglass reinforced plastic angles were installed with a neoprene pad to hold down the top of the tank. These were bolted through the maple longitudinal frames on the sides of the tank and into 2" FRP angles that were epoxied to the existing boat hull stringers. Note that these stringers are large hollow fiberglass that were apparently built in as a base to build the boat floor. They could also be used to pull wire fore and aft. The original tank did not have a provision to anchor the tank down in the event the boat rolled.

(2) Supply tubes and (2) Return fittings for: diesel heater, future generator, future fuel polishing (Include removable caps for future installation)

(2) Supply tubes for engine fuel

Tubes and return fittings to be installed in aft access port.

Fuel supply hose tank connection - on the side of the tank

Fuel tank vent line

Tab for electrical grounding of tank

Fuel sender = Tempo Electrical

1" capped fitting to allow for use of a dip stick

Use a fabricator that is qualified to build Marine Fuel Tanks and applies a label to the tank.

Certify that ABYC standards are met - pressure test to 5 lbs. air.

Pickup tubes: The engine tubes should drop to a lower level than the generator tube. This will act as a warning system since the generator will run out of fuel before the engines do. All pickup tube ends should be cut at a 45� angle and not extend all the way to the bottom of the tank. DO NOT use any sort of strainer devices inside of the tank.

Inserted 300 series (304 or 316) stainless steel fitting between aluminum tank and any copper or brass fitting.

Note that Rick at Coastal Marine Fabricators, Ft. Pierce did an outstanding job of building this tank as well as providing his expert advice on installation, on top of doing this within one week of the order. The price was very reasonable.

Rebuilt floor aft of compression post. This work was required to to leaks from a lack of maintenance of the deck fittings. It was done coincident with the replacement of the tank which was advantageous to both projects.

Removed existing and replaced cross beams and flooring in the salon and galley cabinet - kept the existing teak hatches. The beams are epoxy coated maple or poplar. Wiring, hose, conduit, and hot water pipe were suspended beneath the longitudinal beams. The new flooring is equivalent to the original and is nominally 5/8 inch marine plywood with epoxy attachment of 2 inch wide by 3/16 inch thick teak strips that have a 1/16 inch chamfer on the top side (these will be cut and milled from teak lumber). The new flooring is designed and built as removeable panels for increased accessibility and maintenance. The beams are attached to allow for removal as well.

Replaced battery shelf with new marine plywood. Built removeable blocking to frame base of (1) maintenance free starting battery, and up to (4) golf cart batteries (Trojan). Installed 5/16 inch brass threaded rods and wood cross-pieces to tie down batteries. Installed (2) Trojan 105s at this time with new 2/0 battery cables.

Installed new stainless steel framed bimini with sunbrella canopy.

Replaced double lifelines with 3/16" stainless (bare wire, not vinyl covered).

Replaced Pedestal Control Cables and mounting bolts

Built cockpit decks fore and aft out of starboard with teak strips dovetailed into the starboard.

The decks were mounted on starboard blocks to raise deck flush with engine hatch under pedestal. Screens were installed around fore and aft drains that are covered by starboard decks. Water readily drains around the edges of the two deck plates.

Rebuild of Volvo MD11C: - July, 2004

Engine Serial Number: 33626

Did this work while on a mooring. The design of the MD11C allows for removal of the cylinders while engine block remains in place. Volvo is the sole source of new (expensive) parts. Obtained used push rods, lifters, oil pipes that were in excellent condition from parted out engines. Obtained MD11D and salvaged upper end parts for use and also as spares (such as: 50A alternator, starter, fuel lift pump, raw water pump, cylinders, heads, injectors, pipes). Have a spare MS2 transmission with 1300 hours on it that appears to be in good condition.

Rebuilt fuel lift pump with kit

Had injectors checked/adjusted and fuel injection pump rebuilt ($600) at Diesel Injection, Stuart, FL

Had cylinder heads rebuilt at Blockhead Machine, Stuart, FL. They only charged $70 for labor, but the new Volvo valves (3) were expensive

Removed cylinders and piston rings. Cleaned out water jacket of cylinders and honed the cylinders. Replaced all gaskets and rings (about $90 each cylinder!) and reinstalled cylinders and heads.

Cleaned out the exhaust elbow and manifold. Manifold appeared to be in excellent condition.

Did a 20 hour trial run of the engine - offshore to Ft. Pierce and back. Evidence of smoking that appeared to increase. Removed valve covers to retorque heads and readjust valves and discovered that the oil pipe to rocker of aft cylinder had broken. Note that this pipe must be bent away when removing the heads, and the heads had been previously overhauled - the pipe can weaken from this action.

August, 2004: Removed aft cylinder and replaced the oil pipe - raised cylinder without sliding cylinder off the piston rings and then reinstalled cylinder, head and retorqued.

November, 2004 (Key Largo): Adjusted valves (foreward valve is the exhaust valve). Replaced rocker arm adjustment bolt when the original broke.

November, 2004 (Marathon): Replaced fuel pump with new fuel pump. Recuring problem of engine stopping underway because of small air leak was solved when the top cap of the new pump was tightened off shore of Key Largo. Volvo had supplied a new ($130) pump that was apparently not tested for quality control.

November, 2004 (Key Largo to Port St. Lucie): Engine ran very well for entire trip that was into 10/15 kt headwinds the whole trip.

Jan-Feb, 2005: Rebuilt/Repaired stainless wet exhaust system. Canister("muffler") and Flex connecter were fabricated new. Double walled pipe (connecting between canister and flex connector) exterior pipe was repaired (interior pipe was in good condition). No more leaks.

May, 2005: Noticed drip from bottom of raw water pump. Did not run engine again until the two seals in the pump were replaced.

Jan-Mar, 2006: Fabricated new double walled stainless exhaust pipe (connecting between canister and flex connector) - replaced failed flex connector - replaced failed gaskets with new gasket material that has aluminum mesh imbeded. Entire stainless exhaust system has now been replaced.

Diesel Fuel treatment

Sta-bil fuel stabilizer

Valvtect BioGuard

PowerService Diesel Kleen - include Cetane Boost

Miscellaneous Items of Work Completed

Painting of decks while on mooring: - start November, 2006 - finish February, 2007 (holiday plus mostly weather affected timing)

Used White Interlux Pre-Kote #4279 White (1 coats) - filled any hairline cracks - required lots of sanding - primed all surfaces before any finish coats

Use White Brightsides #4381 Off White Polyurethane (2 coats) with 10% Interlux paint thinner (Solvent #333)

Used 32 oz and 10 oz marked plastic containers to measure portions and mix paint

2 inch bristle brush was a good size for all brush work

Add Interlux Polymeric Non-skid Compound #2398c to Brightside to apply non-skid finish on deck surfaces (2 coats)

Do NOT use any thinner, used 6 oz Non-skid per quart of Brightside, let Non-skid soak in paint for 15 minutes before applying (manufacturer instructions)

Note: took about 10 oz to finish a side deck from aft of coaming to bow

Do NOT use any flattener - this will apparently make the paint more brittle / less flexible (less durable)

Used denatured alcohol to clean before applying any of the paint coats.

Move fast to maintain a wet edge - especially with the Non-skid

First: Smooth coats on bulwarks and cabin sides - Scotch 3M blue tape along cabin sides, bulwark, coaming and deck hardware to define areas to receive non-skid - tape all teak and hardware to protect from painting - took about a day to apply all the tape and another day to take it off

Scuff between coats with a very fine Scotch pad

After smooth coats dry enough - remove the tape that defined the Non-skid areas - then apply tape on the smooth paint edges to prepare for Non-skid coats

Used Scotch 3M #218 Fine Line Tape 1/4" width - this is a plastic not paper based tape. Then used the 3M blue tape on top of the Fine Line Tape to protect smooth paint from Non-skid painting

Cut out 3M blue tape for the sharper curved corners (used a Quarter, Milk bottle cap, and 4" plastic lid for these curves)

Second: Non-skid coats on deck and hatch surfaces

Pour a little Non-skid mixed paint into roller tray at a time

Remix the Non-skid paint each time before pouring

Apply smooth paint with 6" and 3" high density foam roller (Home Depot source) - keep rolling until paint is well distributed and air bubbles dissipate

Apply Non-skid with 4" 1/4" nap fabric roller - large 2" diameter works better than small 1 1/4" diameter - use 3" small diameter for tight areas

Use brush to apply Non-skid around hardware - then dab end of brush into paint to get Non-skid texture - then use roller application

Use brush to dab end into overlap areas of roller applied Non-skid to "camouflage" and lines of paint that occur at overlap

Note that dabbing the brush end is very effective in obtaining a uniform Non-skid appearance

(all roller cores should be solvent resistant - cut down 9" covers to 4" lengths)

Did not Roll and Tip - there are to many hardware interruptions to allow for this - should be great for Topsides - Roll and Tip: The foam roller will leave small bubbles - tip the bubbles with a dry bristle brush

Filling of deck, bulwark wall and cabin side - used Evercoat Formula 27 (white polyester filler - drys very fast) and Interlux Watertite

Sanding all surfaces: 80 grit for rough sanding; 120 grit prior to applying primer - use 3M pad between paint coats

Cleaned trays, brushes, and high density foam covers with Interlux paint thinner (Solvent #333) - makes more sense to replace fabric roller covers than clean them

Preparation (filling and sanding) took several days - teak decking had been removed - the gell coat underneath had several defects - the prior paint job had to be removed)

Painting while on a mooring does not allow you to see vertical surfaces well enough to assure that the smooth finish coats are without defect - you can achieve this at the next haulout by taping and sanding the cabin sides and portholes before the haulout. If you time it for good weather, you could put a final finish on during haulout - 16 ounces of Brightside should do it.

Maintenance of hull and deck surfaces

Cleaning Brightside paint:

Use non-ammonia glass cleaner

Cleaning hull waterline brown stain

First: remove thick organic material with plastic scraper (like a Bondo plastic applicator)

Second: Use "The Works" "Tub & Shower Cleaner" - contains oxalic and sulfamic acids Did not affect bottom paint. Apply with wet cloth (don't spray on full concentrate) - keep watering the bottom paint

Waxing the hull:

Use "Meguiar's Cleaner Wax" - easy one-step application

Replaced Galley and Head sinks and counter surfaces with Corian

undermount corian sinks - cameo white

corian surfaces - linen

galley - laundry faucet - hose bibb fitting - swing away

head - bar faucet - swing away

replaced 1 1/2" ID hose from galley sink to through hull (11" long)

June 2007

Replaced Flex connector - between transmission and drive shaft

2 of 4 original connector bolts separated and drive shaft moved aft 3/4 inches when dinghy painter wrapped around shaft

soaked bolts with PB Blaster for a few days before removing bolts from shaft fitting and transmission

installed R&D flexible coupling - excellent fit

Replaced 90 amp Motorola with 55 amp alternator

Motorola failed underway (Morehead City, NC)

Alternator specialist assembled a 55 amp alternator with components that properly fit the unique mounting of the MD11C engine

55 amps is more than adequate with the solar panel capacity - and will load the engine less

November 2007

Replaced engine mount bolts

one of the two bolts in the Port aft engine mount sheared

soaked bolts with PB Blaster for a few days before removing the end of the sheared bolt from the block - was able to use a screwdriver to work the loosened end of the bolt out

used a three foot long 4x4 wood beam with a strut on port end and a 19 inch floor jack on starboard end and a u-bolt through the centered engine lifting point - was able to lift the engine to remove and install bolts

Replaced fuel line from tank to Racor, and installed valves and ferrule at Racor to allow for feed from a fuel can

used 5/6 inch OD copper tubing to replace existing line (which was crimped and blocked)

installed feed line shut-off valve at Racor "IN" side, as well as a T fitting which had a shut-off valve for a ferrule fitting - also installed a shut-off valve on the "OUT" side of the Racor which connects to fuel lift pump on engine block

can connect a fuel can line with a bulb to the ferrule - can then fill the Racor, prime the feed line to the tank, fill the line to the engine injection pump

if the fuel lift pump fails, can supply fuel to engine from a fuel can

NOTE: it is critical to make sure all fittings and filters are sealed from any air leaks

Replaced Invertor with Powerwatt 1750 after original 1500 watt inverter failed.

Installed BatteryMINDer OnBoard Desulphator OBD-12 to desulphate battery banks.

Redesigned and replaced flex connector between engine manifold and exhaust system

The original flex connector, which was welded directly to the flanges, failed underway - this resulted in diesel smoke in many areas of boat - the smoke caused the solar regulator electronics to fail and required extensive cleanup. Redesigned assembly so flex connector now is installed with Accuseal clamps. With a spare flex connector on board, it can now be replaced underway. Used Permatex Ultra Copper high temp silicone to seal the slip fit connection.

Replaced volvo sea water pump #833883 with Johnson model # 10-35157-3 pump. The original volvo pump has a sleeve for the shaft bearing. The new Johnson pump has ball bearings.

March 2008

Replaced starboard anchor rode (CQR) with 300 feet of 5/8 inch twisted nylon with SS thimbles each end.

Cut off 70 ft end with SS thimble and 140 ft end with SS thimble from original 5/8 inch rode. Installed SS thimbles on remaining center length of about 300 ft and installed this rode on port side (Danforth).

July 2008 - built bahama type mooring with two 50 ft. lengths of high test 5/16" galvaninzed chain, 60 ft. lengths of 5/8" twisted nylon with stainless thimbles, and a 1/2" closed eye galvanized swivel.

March 2009 - monitor anchored boat with noon automatic wifi to email and website

April 2009

Rebuilt both fuel injectors (Bosch parts) - replaced nozzles (tips) - improved performance, reduced exhaust smoke significantly.

After cleaning prop, boat performance was much improved.

May 2010

Replaced engine with MD11C Engine Number: 43150, Transmission Number: 39095

Engine is Fresh Water Cooled, operates at 50 to 60 psi

Engine is in excellent condition, performance is much improved

Cockpit hatch cover and pedestal steering can be tilted back to clear the access for engine replacement. A forklift was used to remove and install the engine.

Built a plywood jig to realign the rebuilt original beds to greatly improve the alignment and structural support of the engine mounts

The shaft coupling connection has two positions - one for the top of the beds, one for the top of the engine mount support nut position - the jig was carefully built to engine dimensions - a 3 inch deep strongback along the length controlled distortion and supported the coupling interface

Added 3/4 inch douglas fir to inside of the mahogany beds and thin pieces of oak to better align the top of the beds - epoxied the pieces together and coated the beds with epoxy - epoxy filled and then drilled out the bottom of the holes that are used to vertically through bolt the engine mounts down - epoxy was mixed with glass microfibers

The beds are horizontally through bolted to the original bed frames which have thick fiberglass covering and are very sound

Will use the original engine for replacement parts - the original engine components are in good condition

Also rebuilt the battery shelf - replaced support frame with oak pieces and aluminum channel, as well as the marine plywood shelf and all tie downs (stainless threaded rod in PVC tubes, aluminum channel and starboard cross pieces, neoprene sheet under all batteries)

Historic: Equipment, Parts, Maintenance List

Water Tank Shock Treatment

Bronze Seacock Maintenance:

Disassemble and lubricate bronze seacocks with Mercury 2-4-C lubricant (with teflon) - Note Groco indicates their ball valves do not require routine maintenance

The bronze seacocks have 3 removeable parts - nut, washer with square hole, tapered seacock body - use open end of combo wrench to remove the nuts

Components

Rigging Wire, Cordage, Anchoring

Maintenance Schedule

Check Lists

Radio Licensing

Engine Issues:

BLACK SOOT from engine and no power:

Either: "rich mixture" or overloading

Overloading: preventing engine from speed required for fuel delivery