CT34, Crumpet, hull number 9 manufactured by Ta Chiao, cutter rigged sailboat built in 1977, CT-34, displacement, fiberglass, teak, isomat, staysail, volvo penta, MD11C, MD 11C, MD 11 C, documented

  
Couldn't find a duplicate of the Cowl Vent that was lost in a storm - with a 4" pipe)

The cowl vent is installed in a Dorade box

Click on the image for a large picture with dimensions shown

Replaced both original vents with the Vetus TOM.

Replaced wood deck mounting plate and rebuilt and refinished dorade boxes.

Built removeable "Dorade" Pipes to force air into chain locker:

Solid Vang
  • Installed Garhauer solid vang - accelerates reefing (from cockpit) - can delete topping lift
    (NOTE: would have to remove to put inflatable on cabin top - to remove, lift the boom to decompress spring and unbolt the 3/8" tang bolts) - Alternate: put inflatable on fore deck.
  • Install Lazy Jacks (that retract to the gooseneck and bungee to flag halyard pad eyes just below spreaders)
  • Install Preventer(s) (Coastal cruising - connect Preventers on each side to block near to chain plates) (Off-Shore - install lines on both sides of boom from aft end to shackles at the gooseneck - Preventer line through block at bow back to gooseneck) Preventer line(s) from cockpit - length to allow for either setup.
    • Vang Tangs

    		Boom Vang Dimensions

    		Boom Tang

    		Mast Tang

  • Had stainless steel boom "gooseneck" fitting rewelded after it broke in a storm

    • Staysail Boom - Fore & Aft
  • Consider roller furling
  • Consider use of snatch block to heave-to with staysail
  • Consider replacing bar traveler with standing blocks at existing mounting points for bent bar traveler
    • Avon on Deck
    Stern Solar Panels & Battery Bank :
  • Stern mounted Solar Panels:
    A custom welded aluminum frame was installed on the stern pulpit.
    Three Arco 55 watt panels were attached together with lift off type hinges. The solar regulator has shown over 8 amps. Over 9 amps can be generated.
    The frame can swing up (when sun is forward) and down (when sun is aft) to improve power generated. The panels are normally fixed horizontally.
    The panels are bolted to the frame with stainless wingnuts and can be removed or folded accordian style and remain on the frame - the panel that is on top of the folded panels is still exposed to the sun.
    This allows for removal for storms, as well as a reduced (when panels are either removed or folded) footprint within the boat length when docking. When the panels are folded, the frame can swing down and be secured to the stern pulpit frame.
  • Battery Bank:
    Four Golf cart batteries (Trojan 105) are installed in two battery banks. A combiner is installed to charge the first bank initially, and then the second.
    • Radar Installation:
  • Radar:
    A JRC 1500 MarkII Radar was installed on a backstay mounted Questus pole.
    A solar powered light was attached with a fabricated starboard bracket to the Radar platform mount.
    • Haulout:
    February, 2006

    April, 2007
  • Haulout:

    Cracker Boy Marina - Ft. Pierce, February 2006
    Trinidad bottom coating - (1) coat. 2 gallons (one of blue mixed with one of black).
    Raised water line 1 1/2 inches - epoxy coat primer
    Epoxy coated prop and shaft with bottom coating for finish.
    Shaft Zinc: Donut on tapered shaft - ground out a 1 inch donut to match - 1 1/4 inches thick; 1 1/64 inch diameter foreward; 1 inch diameter aft.
    Rudder Zincs: two Camp ZHC-3 zincs mounted with two 1/2 inch diameter stainless bolts - rudder is 2 inches thick.
    Cracker Boy Installed two new Groco ball valve through hulls at the head and engine raw water. Replaced bronze tapered sea cocks with Apollo ball valves.
    After splash, checked through hulls - the raw water valve was leaking. Cracker Boy hauled boat onto hard and reinstalled.
    I later installed a ARG-750 raw water strainer for Engine raw water.
    Engine raw water required adapters for 5/8" ID hose. Head water supply required adapter for 3/4" ID hose.
    Replaced head with new Jabsco unit. Installed a vacuum break loop for the water supply and replaced the Y-valve for the waste hose.
    Installed new stainless Waste inlet on deck.
    Used SLX (contains some acid) to clean topsides before new bottom paint applied. Used Maguiers Clean and Wax to restore the topsides.  
    After leaving Ft. Pierce discovered that the plastic speed log through hull was leaking - presume that it was dislodged by the Cracker Boy removal of barnacles.
    Went to Riverside Marina in Ft. Pierce to get hauled to replace the speed log through hull. Riverside agreed to haul the boat late and leave it in the sling overnight to avoid cost of setting on the hard. Discovered that the plastic fitting had been poorly installed originally without backer plate, and the seal had deteriorated over time. Replaced with 1 1/2 inch bronze through hull with a bronze cap and starboard base plate.
    All through hulls were set in 3M 5200.
    Photo of rudder shows minor defect that should be glassed over at next haulout.  
    Riverside Marina - Ft. Pierce, April 2007
    Marine Survey April, 2007
    Needed a out of water marine survey since insurance company had dropped Florida coverage
    Trinidad bottom coating - (3) coats top 12 inches - (2) coats top 2 to 3 feet (1) coat bottom half. 2 gallons (one of dark blue mixed with one of black).
    Reserved some paint to paint under keel when boat lifted for splash
    Removed existing bottom paint with 5" rotary disk (used 4 medium grit 3M #36 disks) - washed the hull down before painting - sanded all exposed bronze - used 2 large tarps to control sanding dust
    Used good respirator and goggles during sanding, as well as long sleeve shirt and nitrile gloves - imperitive
    Used 9 inch 3/8 inch nap roller with a 18 inch extension, and several 1 inch and some 2 inch disposable bristle brushes
    Used several blue nitrile gloves, paint remover for some cleanup, borrowed a drill driven paint mixer for the very thick paint, and large paint bucket to mix 2 gallons
    Used 1/4 inch fine line Scotch tape and 2 inch 3M blue tape to mask the waterline before sanding - patched any tape damaged by sanding
    Prop/shaft - all exposed rudder metal - through hulls - bow sprit hull fitting - coated with Interlux 353/354 etcher/primer then epoxy paint and with bottom coating for finish.
    Shaft Zinc: Donut on tapered shaft - ground out a 1 inch donut to match - 1 1/8 inches thick; 1 1/64 inch diameter foreward; 1 inch diameter aft.
    Rudder Zincs: two Camp ZHC-3 zincs mounted with two 3 inch long 1/2 inch diameter stainless bolts and nylok nuts - rudder is 2 inches thick.
    Used Kitty Hair epoxy filler (fast dry) under the Rudder Zincs to provide a flat mounting surface - cleaned out mounting holes to assure contact between zinc bolts and rudder bracket
    Used prop puller to remove and lubricate (Mercury 2-04-C) prop shaft
    Disassembled and lubricated four bronze seacocks with Mercury 2-4-C lubricant (with teflon) - Note Groco indicates their ball valves do not require routine maintenance
    The bronze seacocks have 3 removeable parts - nut, washer with square hole, tapered seacock body - use open end of combo wrench to remove the nuts
    After splash, checked the four seacocks
    Used fiberglass cleaners with oxalic acid to clean topsides before new bottom paint applied. Used Maguiers Clean and Wax to restore the topsides.
    Need long power cord, ladder, hose spray handle - yard should provide hoses and ladder  
    Two days to sand off the bottom paint - One day to maintain seacocks - One day to paint - note that the metal etcher/primer and then epoxy paint must cure before final painting - yard must move jack stands after bottom paint cures - paint over jack stand areas should cure 8 hours before splash
    Did not shock the water tanks with Chlorox - well water smelled of sulphur  
    Bill: (2) gallons Trinidad @ $220/gal - 1 qt Interlux 353/354 @ $35 - Misc: $35 - PowerWash @ $45 - Block @ $45 - Environmental Fee @ $25 - Felt Cloth to catch sanding waste @ $48 - 6 days storage at $10 per day - Haul @ $140 - Splash @ $140 for total of $1080
    • To Ascend the Mast:
    A separate line is tied with a bowline to a bowline that is tied in the main halyard, that is then hauled to the top and tied tight to the base of the mast (don't attach separate line to halyard shackle).
    Left hand ascender is tied with a bowline to the bosuns chair. Right hand ascender is tied with a bowline to a loop for the right foot.
    A loop with a snap shackle is tied to the bosun's chair and goes around the mast to stabilize the chair agains the mast.
    A line with a prussic slip knot is tied to the bosun's chair and around a separate halyard. This will stop the chair from falling if something breaks.
    Any project materials and tools are placed in a rigging bag that is tied to chair to be hauled up.
    Procedure is to attach left ascender to separate line and the right ascender above it. Attach the snap shackle loop around mast. Attach prussic knot around separate halyard. Sit in chair and raise the right ascender 9 or so inches - raise up in chair as you step in the right foot loop - raise the left ascender 9 or so inches - raise the prussic knot the same amount - proceed.
    LED Lighting: Photoswitch
  • Interior:
    Replace halogen bulbs (G4 base) in two dome lights with Sensibulb LED lights (SEN10W - soft white color)
    Remove the red halogen bulbs in order to avoid heat damage to the Sensibulbs - plan to replace with red LEDs
  • Mast:
    Anchor Light: Installed Dr. LED White Polar Star 40 - Part# PS40-18W-RO-D - existing Aqua Signal Series 40 Quick-Fit base
    Designed to replace the Aqua Signal Series 40 #90005 (with BAY15d base) - 2nm USCG visibility - 11 to 15 VDC approximately 0.1 Amp
  • Strobe:
    Installed LED 12V Flasher to strobe the anchor light - uses less than 400mA
    On/Off switched into the anchor light circuit
  • Photoswitch:
    Installed Flexcharge Night Watchman photoswitch - automatically turns up to 10 amp rated load at dusk and off at dawn.
    Installed two switches to allow the Anchor light and/or Cabin lights to automatically turn on and off
    • TV antenna:
  • 6-66 omnidirectional antenna:
    A 66 inch length of 1" x 1/16" aluminum bent into a circle with a 6" gap between the ends. Connect twin leads of 50 feet of 300 ohm TV antenna wire to the ends of the aluminum band. The 6 inch gap allows the antenna to be balanced electrically with the twin lead conductor. The overall length corresponds to a multiple of the frequency of TV signals.
    Connect the conductor to a 75 ohm coax connector compatible with the TV.
    Antenna should be close to horizontal when raised
    66" + 6" = 72" circumference. Diameter = 22 15/16".
    This antenna worked very well - increased the number of channels received and the quality of the signal
    • Surfing:
  • POE Bridge:
    Outdoor Wireless Bridge
    10BaseT Ethernet - Network Standard IEEE 802.11b
    Receive Sensitivity -94dBm at 1 Mbps; -84dBm at 11 Mbps
    Output Power (with antenna) Up to 30dBm ERIP max with suitable antenna.
    Output Power (at the N connector) Adjustable from +17.5dBm (max) to +11.5dBm (min)
    Range Up to 34 km (21miles)
    Encryption Key Length 128 bit
    Dimension (W x D x H) (5.11 inches x 5.11 inches x 1.38 inches) excluding mounting clamps
    Unit Weight 0.55 kg (1.21 lbs)
    Enclosure NEMA Water Tight
    Power Consumption 350 mA at 12V DC
    Power Supply +12 V DC from external Power Adapter( 100 V ~ 264 V / 50 ~60 Hz AC IN 12V DC OUT )
    2.4 GHz 8 dBi Omnidirectional Wireless LAN Antenna - IEEE 802.11b, 802.11g Wireless LAN - Compact, lightweight design Durable UV-stable fiberglass radome - All weather operation - Impedance 50 Ohm Max. - Input Power 100 Watts - VSWR < 2.0:1 avg. - Vertical Beam Width 18° - Horizontal Beam Width 360° - Weight < 1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) - Length 16" (406.4 mm) - Wind Speed (MPH) Loading 100 9 lb. - 125 13 lb.
    Direct burial CAT5E cable with RJ45 connectors from mounting on Questus radar bracket
  • British Seagull
  • 1991 5 hp Mercury Mariner
  • Batteries
  • Coast Guard Minimum Requirements for Boaters
  • Cruising Medical Kit
  • Sternway steering - backing and filling technique
  • Daily Voyage Log
  • Tuning Rig - Boom Length Recommendations (for Tayana 37)
  • Preventer
  • Reefing Mainsail from Cockpit